Sarah Abbott: Georgian wines can be compared to the best in the world, and this success is the result of a decade of hard work

IWSC 2025 Wine & Spirits Judging in Georgia will be held in Tbilisi from November 27 to December 1, 2024, in collaboration with the Gurjaani Wine Festival and the National Wine Agency of Georgia.

The jury will be led by Sarah Abbott, a renowned expert and popularizer of Georgian wine and a member of the IWSC Jury Committee.

We spoke to Sarah ahead of the competition at the Gurjaani Wine Festival, where the British Master of Wine led the presentation and tasting of last year’s IWSC Gold Medal winning wines.

As a Georgian wine expert, you have witnessed both the ancient traditions and modern developments of the industry. How do you see the development of the Georgian winemaking identity in a rapidly changing global market, especially with the growing demand for sustainability and innovation?

Georgia is both an ancient and modern wine country. In the last decade, it has re-emerged in the global wine culture. The country boasts a long history of winemaking, which is an integral part of its identity, but today Georgia stands out as one of the most dynamic and creative wine-producing countries. It may sound old-fashioned, but Georgia truly combines tradition and innovation.

Georgia strives to maintain a balance between natural winemaking and an industrial, post-Soviet approach. Over the past 20 years, and especially the last decade, the changes that have taken place in Georgia have been some of the most rapid and impressive not only among new, but also among traditional, ancient wine regions.

Today, Georgia is increasingly positioning itself as a world-class wine-making country – not only in terms of wine quality, but also in terms of its good knowledge of market trends and consumer desires.

When it comes to sustainability, Georgia stands out for its innovation, talented young winemakers, and modern wineries. However, there is still much to be done in this regard. Several leading wineries are already actively working in this direction, but it is necessary to overcome the practices and thinking of the Soviet era.

At the level of small farms, the culture of tending vineyards and making wine for their own consumption is sustainable in itself – it naturally saves resources. However, at the commercial level, traditional approaches are widespread – irrigation, orientation towards high yields and traditional methods of pest control.

This approach is slowly changing and I believe that Georgian winemaking is entering a new stage of sustainable development. After the quality revolution, now a sustainability revolution is beginning.

Georgia is known for its ancient methods of making qvevri wine, but it also actively uses modern technologies. How do Georgian winemakers manage to balance these two approaches and which one has more potential in the global market?

Interestingly, qvevri wine accounts for about 10% of total production. This is an estimate, as there are no official statistics.

Making qvevri wine is a real art. Some people think that you just throw grapes into a qvevri and wait, but in fact it is one of the oldest and most complex technologies in winemaking. It requires an experienced winemaker who can handle temperature control, pressing, proper yeast development, and managing the fermentation process.

The qvevri was created at a time when people only had their own land, knowledge, and fire. That is why its design is so simple and at the same time ingenious. Today, winemakers use qvevri because it is a connection to the traditions of their ancestors. Although it is easier to make wine in stainless steel or oak barrels, good qvevri wine still remains a treasure trove of Georgian winemaking.

Georgian amber wines are especially distinguished, which have become Georgia’s calling card among wine lovers.

In recent years, classical winemaking in Georgia has also been developing rapidly. Over the past five years, I have tasted such clean, lively whites and fruity reds that we can confidently compare them to the best in the world. This success is the result of a decade of hard work.

Although qvevri wine is a small part of the production, it remains a symbol of Georgian winemaking. I must mention the excellent red wines that are made without qvevri, mainly from Saperavi. Whether fermented and aged in stainless steel or aged in special oak barrels, they boldly compete with such famous wines as the best Tuscan or Bordeaux red wines.

How can Georgian producers use this diversity in such competitive markets as the EU, the US and Asia?

There are over 500 grape varieties in Georgia, most of which are now found only in research vineyards. However, from a commercial perspective, the focus is on about ten main varieties that are well adapted to local environmental conditions and the tastes of modern consumers.

Among these varieties, Saperavi stands out in particular. This ancient red variety is known for its versatility and distinctive taste, which makes it increasingly popular in the British market. We can already see Saperavi on the shelves of such well-known stores as Marks & Spencer, Waitrose and Majestic. I believe that Saperavi has the potential to become the “Malbec of the Caucasus” because this variety grows particularly well in high-mountain areas and gives us unique taste qualities.

As for the white varieties, the most common is Rkatsiteli – the Georgian “Trebbiano”. Although it was previously used mainly for mass production, old-vine Rkatsiteli produces excellent wines, especially amber. Recently, the popularity of amber Rkatsiteli wines has been growing, it blends well with other Georgian varieties, as well as with Chardonnay.

Also worth mentioning is Kis, often called the Georgian Sauvignon Blanc. Kis is an aromatic and lively wine that is good for both amber wines and blends. Also of interest are small but promising varieties: Shavkapitou, which resembles a blend of Beaujolais and Pinot Noir; Ojaleshi – a dark but delicate red; and Tsolikouri – the main white grape of western Georgia.

Young winemakers are experimenting with mixing local and international varieties. The blend of Saperavi and Cabernet Sauvignon is especially successful – Cabernet has been established in Georgia for more than a century.

Ultimately, the greatest potential lies with Saperavi, Kisi, Mtsvivani and Shavkapito. Saperavi is already successful in various markets, while lighter varieties such as Shavkapito and Tsolikouri are becoming popular in Western Europe. Of particular note is the Georgian “Petnat” naturally sparkling wine, which is made from aromatic white varieties and is particularly appealing to the modern consumer.

In your experience, how can Georgian winemakers meet international standards without losing the uniqueness that makes their wines stand out?

Georgian winemakers are already taking significant steps towards meeting international standards. Their wines are becoming increasingly high-quality and sophisticated. Many of them have experience working abroad, which is reflected in their products.

For example, the head winemaker at Shuchmani Wines, Tamili, has worked in various parts of the world, including New Zealand. His experience working with Sauvignon Blanc helps him bring out the best qualities of Georgian Mtsvane – its freshness and aroma.

Some people think that Georgian wine is all about the rough style and only a few pure wines stand out. In fact, most Georgian wines are made by professional, internationally experienced winemakers. A good example is Levani from Tiko Estate, who has won numerous awards at the IWSC and has worked in leading wineries in Australia.

The uniqueness of Georgian wine lies in its indigenous grape varieties and special terroir. Georgia’s mountainous terrain, high-altitude vineyards and temperate climate – with sunny days and cool nights – give the wine a special aroma. The constant improvement of the quality of qvevri wines also significantly contributes to the preservation of traditions. The development of sustainable winemaking is also important. Some leading producers,

such as GWS (with over 100 hectares of organic vineyards) and Chateau Mukhrani (with fully organic vineyards), are already working in this direction. Others are also trying to introduce sustainable viticulture practices in accordance with global standards.

In terms of marketing, Georgians are naturally good storytellers, but there is still a lot of work to be done in digital communication. The websites of most wineries fail to tell interesting stories. Although many are actively involved in social media, especially on Instagram, but overall, digital marketing needs to be strengthened.

As a reminder, registration for participation in the “IWSC 2025 Wine & Spirits Judging in Georgia” is open until November 1. This year, winemakers can expect an important novelty: in addition to wine products, it will be possible to submit chacha, brandy and other high-alcohol beverages to the competition.

To register, visit the link: https://bit.ly/4eUvaCG