Author: nuca

Known as ‘the cradle of winemaking’, Georgia has a history of over 8,000 vintages. With over 500 indigenous grapes and a unique winemaking tradition of qvevri, this stunning mountainous country has a few cards up its sleeve to impress even the most discerning palates. This has been once again proven by the IWSC’s 2024 Wine Judging in Georgia which had our international experts sing praise to Georgian grapes and wine styles. At the end of the tasting, organised in partnership with The Gurjaani Wine Festival and National Wine Agency of Georgia, we sat down with our judges, David Kermode, Will Hill, Cat Lomax, as well as Head Judge Alistair Cooper MW, to hear their opinions of Georgian wines and their future on the global stage.

“I am very impressed. This is my second trip to Georgia – the first one was 4-5 years ago. And I have seen a qualitative leap forward in those four to five years. We found some absolutely world-class wines during this judging,” shared Head Judge Alistair Cooper MW.

The medal results are a testament to the consistent quality of Georgian wines – this year, out of nearly 450 wines that entered the competition, more than 60% were awarded with medals, including 18 golds. These results are similar to last year’s Georgian Wine Judging, when around 57% of wines received medals, including 16 golds.

It is not just the quality, but also the diversity of Georgian wines that impressed our judges.

“There are so many different styles on the show! And not just styles from one variety to another. But regionally, we are seeing a lot more identifiable dependency between where grapes are coming from, and the kind of winemaking decisions that are very, very clear in the glass,” said Will Hill.

Cat Lomax praised the distinctive character of the Georgian wines tasted: “Some of the top-flight wines that we awarded golds were truly standout and incrediblymemorable in terms of the aromas that you get in the glass. They just have a real hallmark, an individuality sort of stamped onto them, which is just distinctive for this one country in the world. So yes, they are qualitatively, very much up there with the best wines.”

Some of the most distinctive Georgian wines are certainly skin-contact wines made in qvevri, noted the judges who were impressed by the way qvevri allows the grape character to shine through, while also adding a rich texture to the wines.

“Something we found was quite consistent in qvevri wines was this umami kind of flavour. Sometimes it presented itself as a kind of soya bean, sometimes a little bit more like parmesan cheese, but in a very desirable subtle way. And the texture that can come from using a qvevri is something you don’t really get from other vessels. This wonderful integration of spice and tannin, and this drying kind of finish!,” shared Will Hill.

The judges emphasised that when it comes to qvevri-made orange wines, careful extraction is crucial for maintaining the balance and avoiding the overly dry sensation on the palate. When done well, these wines are outstanding and their ageing potential is truly remarkable, said the judges.

“Ithink, very often they are wines that need to be drunk with food – due to the grip they have. But they offer such fantastic opportunities for pairing with food! So they’re kind of a sommelier dream, I think because they can go with so many things,” added Alistair Cooper MW.

However, a sommelier’s dream could be a retailer’s nightmare pointed the judges, as selling these wines off a supermarket shelf might prove challenging.

Cat Lomax shared some tips for the producers: “The brilliant thing about selling wines in a restaurant is a hand-sell moment – the sommelier can give you the story, explain exactly why this wine will go perfectly with this particular dish. That’s very different in a supermarket environment where you have nobody guiding you – all you have is a small ticket and a label. So the more guidance you can give consumers to help them on that journey, the better it will be in terms of results, both in terms of sales, but also loyalty, because you’ll have a customer who understands your wine and knows when to drink it”.

Placing more emphasis on the labels and including tips and hits for consumers, such as serving and food pairing suggestions, was something our judges recommended to Georgian producers.

Speaking of the standout grape varieties, our experts highlighted Saperavi, often named the ‘king of Georgian grapes’ – a well-deserved title, according to the judges who described these big bold red wines as consumer-friendly and compared them to Malbec.

Alistair Cooper MW shared: “I think it’s a great variety that will appeal to many people. And that I think, is one of its star qualities, in a way linking it to something like Malbec – it’s just as ‘user-friendly’. It’s accessible for the less engaged consumers yet right the way up to very engaged consumers and professionals. I think it has a lot to offer. And it can age really well.”

The judges admired the rich exuberant character of Saperavi wines, emphasizing that this grape also requires careful extraction and skillful tannin management.

“Stylistically, I think the most successful Saperavi wines that we have tasted have had really intelligent management of tannin. Obviously, as a big, rich grape variety, it’s quite easy to verge into very extracted wines and to get very drying tannins. So, as I said, the more successful wines are where that tannin has been reined in. It’s ripe, it’s adding a bit of grip, but it’s not dominant. And there’s lovely fresh acidity on the finish so that you get a lovely kind of juiciness,” shared Cat Lomax.

As for the other grapes that performed well, the judges highlighted a few white varieties – specifically, Kisi, Rkatsiteli, Khikhvi and Mtsvane Kakhuri.

“I think Kisi does very well in qvevri styles, but in non-qvevri as well. It’s floral and aromatic, but not overly so, not like, let’s say Torrontes or Gewurztraminer can be. I think Kisi has got this lovely, more restrained morality than those grape varieties, perhaps with some minerality on the palate, looking more towards Gruner Veltliner or something like that. so I think that it’s a great variety that is very much in line with what’s trendy at the moment,” shared Alistair Cooper MW.

Judge Will Hill added: “I found some exceptional examples of Rkatsiteli even with a few years of development in the bottle which was very exciting. But in terms of some of the qvevri wines we tried, Khikhvi in particular, was wonderfully spicy, with great texture – it is one of my favourites I found in qvevri. We were pleasantly surprised by another grape– Mtsvane Kakhuri – the elegance that we found in this grape really produced some of the best qvevri wines we came across.”

Summarising the tips and advice for Georgian wine producers who are aiming to grow their export, our judges, once again, emphasised that the quality is there – now it is time to focus on branding and storytelling. Start with the label, said the judges. Make sure the front label is easy to read and understand for consumers across the world, and the back label contains some clear and not overly complicated descriptors – such as, what the wine tastes like, how to enjoy it, what to pair it with. As for the winemaking practices – careful extraction is key.

Cat Lomax explained: “Across both reds and qvevri wines, one of the key messages I would give would be about managing tannins. It’s very easy, as we’ve already mentioned, with Saperavi to end up with big extracted wines with quite grippy, chewy tannins. The same can be said of qvevri wines. The longer skin contact can result in a wine that is quite drying. So it’s all about thinking about that last sensation in the mouth. Is it juicy and fresh? Or is it drying? And if it birding towards drying, you’ve probably extracted a bit too much.”

Alistair Cooper added, that focusing on youthful, fruit-forward, easy-to-drink Saperavi at a slightly lower price point will help to win over new consumers and push the category forward.

Another tip the judges shared is working closely with independent retailers who can become true ambassadors of Georgian wines. “Independent specialists have a loyal following of customers, and they’re growing well. So many people that I know that are not in the wine industry, that are semi-engaged or engaged consumers, trust these gatekeepers. So I think we need to make sure that those gatekeepers and those independents are engaged, because they have a huge role to play in furthering the accessibility of Georgian wines to consumers,” said Alistair Cooper.

Georgia is a very special place for a wine consumer to explore, with authentic wine traditions and unique grape varieties, said the judges. At the same time, the country successfully combines its heritage with modern winemaking techniques, producing wines that are easy to understand and enjoy anywhere in the world. It is exciting to see the quality of Georgian wines grow, and our judges are looking forward to diving deep into the country’s authentic wine styles next year.

Our team of international experts spent an eventful week in Kakheti, Georgia’s biggest wine region, during our Global Judging event organised in partnership with the Gurjaani Wine Festival and National Wine Agency of Georgia.

The judges visited Kakhetian wine producers, from big, benchmark wineries to boutique, family-run projects, and tasted their way through over 500 entries. This year, in addition to the wines from Georgia itself, we were delighted to welcome entries from Armenia and Azerbaijan.

The judging panel was overseen by Alistair Cooper MW. A stellar team of international experts joined Alistair at the tasting table: Cat Lomax, Emma Penman, Will Hill, Georgios Iordanidis, Melania Battiston, David Kermode, Zara Serobyan and Salvatore Castano. Local Georgian judges also joined the panel bringing their invaluable insight and knowledge of the region.

“I am very impressed. This is my second trip to Georgia, the first one was 4-5 years ago. There has been a huge step forward in quality since that time; we enjoyed some absolute top-end wines during this judging,” shared Alistair Cooper MW.

The judges appreciated the careful use of oak, as well as the individuality and the distinctive regional character of many Georgian wines that entered the competition. This character really shone through in Georgian qvevri wines, which put on a brilliant performance: 9 golds and many more silver and bronze medals have been awarded to orange wines made following this tradtional method.

“The best-performing wines were orange wines – we found a number of great examples, which were a joy to taste. The very best of these won gold medals due to their fresh acidity, highly perfumed nose, elegant palate and restrained, non-drying extract,” shared the judges.

Kisi and Rkatsiteli are the grapes that showed particularly well when vinified in qvevri, said our experts. One of the highest scoring wines of the Georgian judging was a Kakhetian orange Rkatsiteli. The wine earned 97 points and a solid gold with judges praising its nose of sweet dried apricots, golden raisins and freshly baked pastry, as well as its velvety texture and a long lasting finish.

Saperavi, Georgia’s most widely planted red variety, was another standout grape with good results achieved by both qvevri and non-qvevri styles. The judges noted, when it comes to Saperavi, careful extraction, tanning management and a cautious use of oak are key. With the right approach in the vineyard and at the winery Saperavi yields juicy, lush, well-structured wines.

“Saperavi is a great variety. It’s like Malbec in a way – it’s very accessible, it has a lot to offer, it’s very consumer-friendly. And it has the ability to age really well – we tasted some wines that were 13 years old and they showed really well,” shared the judges.

Overall, Georgian wines performed exceptionally well at this year’s tasting with more than 280 medals awarded in total.

Speaking of Armenian wines tasted this week, the judges highlighted that Areni from Vayots Dzor region performed well, with 9 strong medals earned by Areni wines.

“The most successful wines allowed the character of the grape to shine through (red cherry notes), but were ripe and had balanced acidity. We did find a couple of wines where the oak was too heavy, so this is something for producers to be conscious of when making decisions in the winery,” revealed the judges.

Other Armenian varieties that performed well were Akhtanak & Nrneni, said the judges. In total, Armenian wines received over 20 medals, with nearly half of all entries from this country being awarded.

Our 2024 Awards officially kicked off with the IWSC Wine Judging in Georgia. Last week, we were delighted to hold a Global Judging event in this country for the second time – after the roaring success of the 2023 judging.

This year, in partnership with the the Gurjaani Wine Festival and National Wine Agency of Georgia, the judging took place in Kakheti, Georgia’s key wine region. In addition to the wines from Georgia itself, we welcomed entries from Armenia and Azerbaijan. With over 500 entries, this year our Wine Judging in Georgia was an even bigger event.

Our judging panel was led by Master of Wine Alistair Cooper who was joined by internationally renowned on-trade and off-trade wine experts and communicators:  Cat Lomax, Emma Penman, Will Hill, Georgios Iordanidis, Melania Battiston, David Kermode, Zara Serobyan and Salvatore Castano. Local Georgian judges also joined our international panel.

Georgian wines put on a brilliant performance with 285 medals awarded in total, including an impressive number of 18 golds, over 70 silvers and over 190 bronze medals.

The judges were particularly impressed by qvevri-made, orange wines which, according to our experts, showed complexity and distinctive regional character. Georgian qvevri wines received 8 gold medals and many silver and bronze awards, with the highest-scoring wine of the competition being a qvevri wine – Kardanakhi 1888 LLC Tsarapi 2020. This entry received a stellar score of 97 points and a solid gold, the judges calling it a “super star” and admiring the “golden raisins and freshly baked pastries on the nose, with warm apricots and sweet spice. A velvet palate with a complex yet silky structure of toasted nuttiness, finishing on candied oranges and balanced acidity”.

Two more gold-winning qvevri wines received impressive scores of 96 points from our judges: LTD Kakheti Company Bedoba Orange 2021 (“complex and layered with wonderful precision. Ripe aromas of persimmon, sweet spice and ginger with a creamy yet textured palate”) and Mildiani Khikhvi Qvevri Bouquet 2018 (“a wonderfully expressive and aromatic bouquet with complex layers of tart quince, honey, dried mango and orange zest”).

Several gold medals were awarded to wines made of Saperavi – Georgia’s main red grape. The highest-scoring Saperavi wine also came from Mildiani Family Winery. Their Mukuzani Reserve 2018 received 96 points and a gold, the judges describing it as “richly-fruited and deliciously spicy”. Mildiani Family Winery were the most decorated producer of this year’s Georgian judging, with a total of 13 medals including 4 golds.

This year we saw over 50 Armenian entries take part in our Wine Judging in Georgia; about half of them were awarded with medals, including one silver and more than 20 bronzes. This shows positive change and progress happening in the Armenian winemaking said the judges, noting that wines made of Areni, Armenia’s indigenous grape, performed especially well.

We were delighted to see several Azerbaijani wines enter the competition for the first time and receive some bronze medals. With the country’s wine industry quickly growing, our judges were excited to taste some very good examples of Azerbaijani wines and are looking forward to tasting more entries from this country in the future.

 

Luke, your wine journey began in the kitchen a decade ago. How did that culinary foundation shape your approach to wine and its synergies with food?

My wine journey began a decade ago in the heart of the kitchen. The culinary foundation has influenced my approach to wine, enriching my understanding of flavours, textures, and the context of what food and beverage means to people. Food and wine, for me, represents a part of the essence of life – its primal and gastronomic facets. When it comes to wine, I view it through a lens that encompasses context, embracing the cultural and geographical influences with the occasion itself.

 

As a current Master of Wine student, what has been the most challenging and rewarding aspect of this prestigious journey, and how does it enhance your role as a judge for the IWSC?

As a current Master of Wine student, this journey has been both challenging and immensely rewarding. I’ve temporarily paused at Stage 1, which taught me not only about what I know but, more importantly, about what I don’t. My aspiration to become a Master of Wine remains resolute, and this pause allows for a moment of gratitude and reflection on the experience so far.

 

Given your vast experience and education in wines, what unique qualities or characteristics are you particularly looking forward to uncovering from the Georgian wines at the IWSC Wine Judging?

Drawing on my experience and education in wines, I am eagerly looking forward to exploring the unique qualities and characteristics of Georgian wines at the IWSC Wine Judging. The aspects that intrigue me most include delving into the stories behind these labels, observing indigenous Georgian grape varieties, and understanding how producers utilise the traditional Qvevri. I look forward to witnessing what the contemporary  Georgian wine landscape looks like.

 

Being the Head of Wines for an entire hotel group entails curating a wide range of wine selections. How do you ensure consistency in quality while catering to different palates and preferences across properties?

We’ve established a well-defined philosophy when it comes to choosing wines, focusing on supporting family-owned and smaller producers, wines with compelling stories, sustainability credentials, and value across various price points. Our emphasis is on fostering strong relationships with our suppliers, many of whom are friends, built on trust and shared values. The individuality and personality of each PIG wine list are preserved through the autonomy of the respective head sommeliers, reflecting their expression through the wine list.

 

With the ever-evolving global wine industry, where do you see the next big trend or region emerging, and how do you envision Georgian and Caucasian wines positioning themselves in that future landscape?

While predicting the next big trend or emerging wine region in the ever-evolving global wine industry is a challenge, I believe in staying true to our values rather than blindly following trends. Wines that represent their unique locations, thoughtful winemaking, value, and a genuine commitment to sustainability will likely lead the industry in the years to come. Georgian and Caucasian wines, with their rich heritage and diversity of style, are well positioned to become an integral part of the wine narrative, contributing to the storytelling of both place and winemaking. While they may not rise to the level of popularity enjoyed by New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc anytime soon, I foresee high-quality Georgian wines finding a well-deserved place on our lists.

 

 

Following two weeks of the IWSC 2024 Wine Judging, today we are delighted to reveal the medal results. This year, we received thousands of entries from across the world. We had a team of over 120 international judges join us, including over 20 Masters of Wine and nearly a dozen Master Sommeliers. Our expert panels were comprised of 57% Off-Trade Buyers from UK’s leading retailers, 26% On-Trade Buyers from well-established bars and restaurants, 6% Wine Journalists and Educators. The panels were overseen by the IWSC Wine Judging Committee members: Alex Hunt MW, Alistair Cooper MW, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, Essi Avellan MW, John Hoskins MW, Mick O’Connell MW, Sarah Abbott MW.

IWSC 2024 Wine Judging highlights

• Sweet and Fortified wines stole the show, with outstanding entries from Spain, Portugal, Australia and Canada.
• Champagne put on an impressive performance earning 11 gold medals and once again proving that the region consistently delivers high quality despite the vintage challenges.
• France won the country medal race with just shy of 700 medals awarded, including 27 golds.
• Italy and Australia made it in the top 3 most coveted countries, with nearly 550 and almost 340 medals respectively.
• English sparkling wines had a triumph at this year’s judging, scooping up awards, with our experts admiring the skillful winemaking and the diversity of styles. English Blanc de Blancs and sparkling rosé are among the standouts.

Fortified wines

Fortified wines scoop IWSC medals every year and 2024 was no exception. The judges were delighted by the quality sherries, ports and madeiras, as well as Rutherglen Muscats from Australia, with over a dozen gold medals awarded to the most exceptional wines.

“Some of the sherries showed amazing intensity, wonderful complexity – they just jumped out of the glass. You taste it – and you know straight away that it’s a gold,” shared Dirceu Vianna Junior MW who led the fortified wines tasting.

One of the standout gold-winning sherries was Emilio Lustau 30 YO Amontillado NV, praised by the judges for its complexity and long finish.

As for the highest scoring ports, Kopke Colheita 1965 received a stellar 97 points and a gold medal, the judges raving about its multilayered aromas and describing it as “light but elegant, with a great finish”.

Madeiras also didn’t disappoint; moreover, the judges proclaimed this year’s entries “some of the best madeiras we have ever tasted”. One of the top performers here was Blandy’s Madeira Sercial 1990 that earned 96 points and a gold: “Superb wine with great personality, character and complexity.”

 

Sparkling wines

With an incredible diversity of entries on show, our Sparkling Wine Judging was split over 2 days, with dedicated expert panels for each subcategory.

The Champagne panels were overseen by Essi Avellan MW who was impressed with the overall quality of this year’s entries. The panels echoed this sentiment, noting that there’s great quality to be found in this exciting category, even in the most challenging vintages. “The vintage categories, and especially the Blanc de Blancs styles really stood out,” shared Essi Avellan MW.

The highest-scoring champagne was, nonetheless, a non-vintage one – Solera Rosé Brut NVby Champagne Palmer receiving an impressive 98 points and a gold from the judges.

The other standouts included two vintage expressions: Clos Lanson Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut 2010 by Lanson and Orpale Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut 2012 by Champagne de Saint Gall – both entries were awarded with golds and 97 points.

Over 150 medals were awarded to champagne entries, including 11 golds – an awe-inspiring performance.

Prosecco, English sparkling and other sparkling wines tasting was co-chaired by Alistair Cooper MW and John Hoskins MW.

The Proseccos were consistently well made, with a step up in quality of the Conegliano Valdobbiadene and Cartizze Prosecco. The judges praised the “very good concentration of fruit, fruit definition and good mouth-coating texture”.

Over 70 medals were awarded to Prosecco, and, as expected, Valdobbiadene Brut became the standout flight, with a gold medal awarded to the best expression – Daldin Brut 2023, praised for its “elegant nose, good linear drive and lifted finish”.

English sparkling performed brilliantly this year, with over 100 medals awarded, including six golds.

Several English rosés and Blanc de Blancs caused real excitement among the judges, in particular Wyfold Vineyard Rosé Brut 2018and Union Champagne Tesco Finest Rosé Brut NV. Both wines received 96 points and gold medals.

Gusbourne Boot Hill Vineyard Blanc De Blancs Brut 2018 was the highlight amongst the English Blanc de Blancs – 96 points and a well-deserved gold medal, the judges admiring the “lovely freshness” and the “long, fine, mousse”.

“The English Blanc de Blancs showed some extremely fine wines, indicating the commitment to quality in Sussex, Hampshire and Kent as a whole,” shared the judges.

Looking at other parts of the world, New Zealand sparkling wines showed great quality with 4 gold meads awarded, with one outstanding entry, Oyster Bay Cuvée Brut NV, earning an impressive 96 points.

Canadian sparkling wines wowed our judges with their freshness and concentration of fruit, receiving 2 golds, the highest scoring wine being Lakeview Wine Co. Brut 2017.

France

This year we saw a 20% increase in French entries, with nearly 900 wines from all regions of France on show. The panels tasting still French wines were co-chaired by the IWSC Wine Judging Committee members Alistair Cooper MW and John Hoskins MW. More than 80% of all French wines that entered the competition won medals, including an impressive number of 27 golds, securing France as the top country in the medal table.

In addition to the Champagne sparkling success, the standout regions were Chablis, Provence and Alsace.

The judges praised the nuanced expressions and ageing potential of the best Chablis, noting that, “the complexity exhibited by the Chablis wines was truly remarkable”.

One of the top-performing Grand Cru Chablis, the gold-winning La Chablisienne 2020 our judges proclaimed “electric”, wowed by the “mineral, very concentrated ripe apple and citrus with moderate savoury complexity and long finish”.

The Alsatian gold-winning highlight was a stunning 2022 Gewurztraminer by Dopff Au Moulin, displaying plenty of varietal character with an “exuberant nose of lychees, dried orange peel and pithy, phenolic grip on the palate.”

Two brilliant rosé wines from Provence also received the coveted gold: Château Saint-Maur L’excellence 2023 and Mirabeau Pure 2023. The judges admired the “sense of place”, the charming fruity flavours and the great gastronomic potential of both wines.

Italy

Our Italian panels were co-chaired by Mick O’Connell MW and Alistair Cooper MW who both agreed that there was high quality on show across all regions of Italy. This is reflected in the results – over 450 medals were awarded to Italian wines, including 9 golds.

Piedmont flights became the highlight for our judges, the region boasting 4 gold medals. One of the most impressive Piedmont entries was, unsurprisingly, a Barolo –“rich, elegant and refined”G.D.Vajra Coste Di Rose 2020. The wine won a firm gold and scored 96 points.

Another outstanding entry from Piedmont was a white wine from the rare Timorasso variety – Cantine Volpi Derthona Zerba Antica Timorasso 2019. The judges were unanimous in awarding it a gold praising its “rich and honeyed style and very textural waxy finish”.

A high performer that also came from Northern Italy was an oaked Sauvignon Blanc from Friuli Venezia Giulia – Aganis Sauvignon 2023. The wine wowed our judges with its “richly pungent style with nicely integrated oak notes”.

 

Spain

Our Wine Judging Committee member, Dirceu Vianna Junior MW, oversaw all the panels and was encouraged by the high quality that was presented this year.

In addition to the stellar performance of sherries, several other Spanish regions stood out to our judges earning as many as nearly 400 medals, including 8 golds.

Rioja and Ribera del Duero were among the top-performing parts of Spain.

Riojan wines showed a clear “sense of place”, said our judges. Bodegas Ramón Bilbao Gran Reserva 2016 impressed the panel with its delicate use of oak, “adding an extra layer of spice and complexity”, but not dominating the rich black fruit characters – a firm gold.

Another impressive Spanish red came from the region of Toro. Finca Sobreño Ildefonso 2018 received 97 points and a gold medal from our judges who praised the wine as “extremely long and showing great typicity.”

Portugal

Our Portuguese wine panels were also led Dirceu Vianna Junior MW who noted that, “the consistent quality and the highly enjoyable drinking experience that these wines offer is truly impressive.”  Over 260 medals were awarded to Portuguese wines, including 10 gold medals, the majority of which were scooped by the country’s famous fortified wines (3 golds went to Madeiras and 6 to Ports).

The gold-winning still wine from Portugal came from Douro DOC. Quinta do Pégo Vinhas Velhas 2016 had our judges applaud its fruit-forward style with well-balanced oak, the wine showing “surprising freshness despite the age”.

Australia

Australia had another impressive year with over 330 medals awarded, including 10 golds. The IWSC Judging Committee member Alistair Cooper MW led the tasting, noting that Australian Shiraz, Chardonnay and the country’s fortified wines were among the highlights.

The Chardonnays received 4 golds with the judges admiring a standout wine from Adelaide Hills – Orlando Wines Lyndale Chardonnay 2021. Made in a reductive style, which was nicely balanced by ample aromas and flavours of “green apple and blossom, with lively acidity and creamy texture,” this was a strong win.

Shiraz dominated the red flights and led the red wines medal count, with 3 gold medals and a collection of silvers and bronzes going to Barossa and McLaren Vale.

The gold-winning Golden Amrita Sunshine Hill Shiraz 2021 from Barossa Valley blew away our panels, with Alistair Cooper MW commenting that, “it was so clearly Barossa – and it was the modern style of Barossa, allowing that fruit to express itself”.

Fortified wines from Australia showed incredibly well, with 2 gold medals and a whole host more silvers and bronzes awarded to Rutherglen Muscats.

 

 

Salvatore, growing up in the rich wine heritage of Sicily and then establishing yourself in the global wine industry is no small feat. How has your Sicilian background influenced your journey and your approach to wine?

As you know in icily it’s really hard to find international wines, so my knowledge was more limited to Italian products. But as soon as I arrived in London, I discovered a new World, full of wines from anywhere around the planet. It was a new start for me.

 

You’re returning to the IWSC Wine Judging in Georgia after your experience last year. What are your reflections on the Georgian wines you judged previously, and what are you looking forward to exploring this year?

Last year I was happy to understand the quality and the potential of Georgian wines. Of course, not all the wines were outstanding, but I believe that this year, after the feedback we gave to the producers in the past, we are going to experience a much more incredible tasting experience.

 

Working in one of Alain Ducasse’s restaurants, “The Dorchester,” must have been a transformative experience. How did this shape your perspective on pairing wines with haute cuisine?

For a Young Sommelier, working in a Michelin Star/Luxury environment is probably the most exciting place to be. I became really strong in French wine knowledge there, but the wine pairing for me has always been the funniest part of the Sommelier task. Every day, even at home, I try to experiment weird pairing, because for me matching wines/drinks with food has no strict rules.

 

As the On Trade Advisor & Wine Buyer at Friarwood Fine Wines, you have a pivotal role in selecting wines for a discerning clientele. What criteria do you prioritize, and how does your judging experience inform your buying decisions?

The criteria I prioritize are the following:

• Quality of the product
• Price
• Is it an easy wine to sell?
• People know this grape/appellation?
• Market domand
• Time of the year (summer/winter)

 

Georgia is renowned for its ancient wine-making techniques, notably qvevri wine-making. How do you perceive these traditional wines in the context of contemporary wine trends?

People are enjoying ancient wine more and more nowadays. People loves wines with minimum intervention, low sulphites, natural wines, and Georgia has it all. I believe that Georgia can have a glorious future in the wine industry, not just because of the history behind, but because of the quality of the wines produced. I never had a better qvevri wine outside of Georgia.

 

Having judged a multitude of wines across various regions, have you noticed any emerging trends or underrepresented regions that you believe deserve more attention on the global stage?

Lately I have tried sweet wines from Moldavia and I was amazed by the quality, and when I looked at the price, I was even more impressed, they were so inexpensive. Every day you hear about new Wine places around the World, the reality is that every Countries are now starting to produce quality wines.

 

Salvatore, reflecting on the impressive accolades from last year’s IWSC Wine judging in Georgia, With Georgia receiving such a high number of medals in the previous competition, including gold, silver, and bronze, do you believe this sets a higher benchmark for the wines being judged this year?

I am sure the level will be higher this year, which will make our life easier. I am sure that this year we’ll have an amazing wine judging and I look forward to discover few more jewels of the Georgian heritage.

David, having transitioned from mainstream journalism to wine writing, how has your media background influenced your unique approach to wine journalism and communication?

I spent the first two decades of my career in the cut and thrust of a busy newsroom, before heading into wine and undertaking my WSET Diploma, so that background helps in all sorts of ways, from speed (TV and radio journalists work to daily news broadcast deadlines), to an understanding of what makes a good story and the importance of a connection of some kind with a wine. Above all, the end user, the consumer, must always be front of mind: we cannot just talk to ourselves – because we are interested already! – we must share our passion in a way that’s inclusive, to reach out to others, which means avoiding making assumptions and being careful to keep the language relatable.  As an example, it you’re sure it is really relevant, then it’s ok to mention ‘malolactic fermentation, but only if you explain what it is, in basic terms, and why it is relevant or important in relation to a particular wine.  The consumer always comes first.

 

As a judge for the IWSC Wine Judging in Georgia, what distinct qualities are you anticipating from Georgian wines, and where do you see them positioned in the global wine narrative?

Everyone loves a story and Georgia is rich in  those stories, as the cradle of wine civilisation. Georgia’s traditions are rich and fascinating, but the wines are also innovative and different, both of which are vital hooks for a modern consumer.  The wines are also enmeshed in a beguiling food culture that begs to be shared with the world.

As you delve deeper into the world of wine, have there been any particular techniques or innovations in wine production that have caught your eye or that you believe are game-changers for the industry?

The wine world is amazing and it is constantly innovating to improve. I think the revolution in rosé production in Provence is compelling with its focus on harvest conditions, temperature control and techniques such as stabulation, for example.

So, technology can also be applied brilliantly to heritage methods and techniques which is what I anticipate will be the case in Georgia.

 

Georgia boasts a rich 8,000-year wine-producing history. As someone who has extensively studied wine and spirits, how do you perceive the significance of Georgian wines within the global wine narrative?

Georgia wine dates back to the earliest ever wines and it’s techniques are historic, so there’s a rich tradition to embrace but Georgia also has indigenous grape varieties that are absolutely on trend with the fashion for lighter, brighter wines, which is exciting.

 

You’ve had the privilege to taste wines from across the world. In your opinion, how do Georgian wines, with their traditional ‘qvevri’ winemaking methods, stand apart from contemporary wine-producing techniques?

Qvevri wines are so distinctive and yet there are often misunderstood, with consumers associating qvevri wines with orange wines, assuming them to be somewhat challenging and tannic. The reality is, of course, that qvevri wines can offer a wide range of different, throughly modern, styles whilst embracing traditional culture.

 

As a consultant for several wine producers, do you see potential collaboration or learning opportunities between Georgian winemakers and other wine regions globally?

Yes, absolutely. Though the wine market in the UK is a crowded one, Georgian wines stand apart for their heritage and also their suitability for a curious, modern consumer. It’s anll a bout telling the story and getting the wines before buyers – and medals are pivotal to that. Every portfolio should offer a carefully curated selection of Georgian wines.

 

Lastly, as you prepare to be a judge at the IWSC in Georgia, what advice or insights would you offer Georgian winemakers who are eager to make their mark on the international stage?

I would say learn what works for international consumers, travel to make wine, then be proud of your culture and think about how to elevate Georgia’s traditions and grape varieties whilst celebrating the story of Georgia’s food and wine culture.  And always, always work together as you’ll achieve so much more.

 

Melania, with your rich experience and unique palate, you’ve championed wines that blend both traditional and adventurous elements. What are you particularly looking forward to discovering or experiencing in the wines from IWSC Wine Judging in Georgia?

With Georgia, I would like to find its own sense of place. I am looking forward to understanding where they are at and what is the direction they would like to undertake. The natural wine movement and its history gave them status, however, I am wondering if they will keep their authenticity in winemaking and indigenous heritage or if at the crossroad, they will move away to their unique features, to satisfy the commercial demand.

 

 Your journey from marketing to pursuing your passion for wine is truly inspiring. How do your marketing insights play into your role as Head Sommelier, Wine Buyer, and now as a judge for the IWSC Wine Judging?

I am slowly re-discovering Marketing and I am trying to apply it to wines, brands and winemaking regions.  Communication has and will always have the biggest influence when try to make an impact on a brand or on a region. The head-line ‘Georgia is the birthplace of wine’ has a semantic satiation effect. It lost its ‘coolness’. I am coming to Georgia to find the new front-page.

 

2022 was a significant year for you with the Young Sommelier Competition win and being named as one of Harper’s Top 25 Sommeliers in the UK. How do accolades like these shape your approach to wine judging, and what advice would you give to budding sommeliers who aspire to gain such honors?

I believe titles do not necessarily make someone a better sommelier or a more prepared professional, also when it comes to wine judging. Competitions and exams are the tip of the Iceberg, what people can see and professionals can be recognised for. The hard work is beneath the surface. To become a skilled wine judge, of course you need to be familiar with wine styles grapes and origins, which means you have to spend your time reading about them and discussing with peers and be informed. However, you also need to be a mediator, a natural communicator, and a bit of a writer. You need to be willing to embrace what the regional experts have to say and apply it into your judging process, you need to be honest and critical when needed, and don’t be afraid to stand up for your opinion or going against someone’s else’s. First and foremost be objective and integrate a helpful feedback when necessary.

 

With the IWSC Wine Judging in Georgia on the horizon, what are your expectations from the wines of the Caucasus region? And how do you envision the feedback from this event impacting the wine industry in these countries?

Being the climate being so diverse from desert like-arid East to cooler and more humid West, being the landscape so vary, from the Caucasus mountains and the lowlands, and the tons of river, I expect many different wine styles. I don’t expect the classic Western European winemaking, I expect rusticity (not being a negative attribute, but being authentic in their own way), perhaps high alcohol and a pungent first-nose.

 

Melania, considering Georgia’s rich 8000-year history in wine production, what are you most looking forward to experiencing firsthand in this storied wine-producing nation?

I found fascinating the melange between history and wine.

Being Italian and having so many indigenous grape variety in my country, I am incredibly curious to taste and get to know some of the 500 native Georgian varieties and others originally from the Caucasus regions.

I would love to experience the historical kvevri winemaking and also I am also looking forward to discovery some elegant examples from the region, and prove myself wrong.

 

Georgia takes great pride in its wine heritage, with local experts and aficionados deeply cherishing and recommending their wines. As you prepare for this journey, how are you gearing up to engage with Georgian winemakers and immerse yourself in their wines?

As an empty cup, the way I would like to engage is by dropping my expectation and listen, learn, and grow my knowledge. My desire is to ask them how the Georgian wine future looks like. If a sense of place exists nowadays and if it is reflected in their wines. I would listen to how people left the traditional kvevri to satisfy a more international market and commercial demand.

 

Given your extensive knowledge and experience in the wine industry, how do you anticipate Georgian wines might stand out or differ from others you’ve tasted around the world?

Georgian wines are not as obscure as it used to be, however, it is still not popular enough to have a clear idea on the general style offered by the region. I know small scale family wineries are doing an impressive job, modernising winemaking and machinery techniques and gaining more insights about their land. Perhaps those are the wines who will blow our mind as judges, the tiny producers we are not able to reach yet.

“There’s been a huge step forward in the top end wines and we have found some absolutely world class examples – the improvement over the last decade has been really quite remarkable.” That was the assessment of Alistair Cooper MW who headed up the judging panel of UK wine professionals to travel to Georgia and put its wines through the rigorous IWSC judging process. Fellow judge, David Kermode, reports back on what was a breakthrough trip for the quality of Georgian wines, and a chance to see how far Georgian wines have come in recent years.

Georgia offers the wine lover a captivating contradiction: to most of us, it still represents something new, a voyage of discovery, yet its wine culture is almost as old as the hills on which the vines are planted, characterised by a style of winemaking that has scarcely changed in 8,000 years.

Roughly the size of Scotland, with a strategically important location between the Black Sea and the Caucasus Mountains, fertile soils and a relatively benign climate, it has always found itself coveted by neighbours, hence an exhausting history punctuated by struggles for independence.

When the Iron Curtain fell, Georgia became the Soviet Union’s wine region: both a blessing and a curse.Producing wines from factories, the emphasis was on quantity over quality, however, it did at least mean that viticulture survived, albeit based on two dominant varieties, Rkatsiteli and Saperavi.Georgia actually boasts 525 indigenous grapes, with some having survived in back gardens before being nurtured back to life at the country’s impressive grape research centre.

This was the first time the IWSC had held not only a judging session in Georgia but put on an actual awards ceremony for its producers too

As if a treasure trove of distinctive varieties once threatened with extinction was not sufficient to tempt us, Georgia also offers the archetype for a now-fashionable style of winemaking in amphora, with orange wines (the Georgians prefer ‘amber’) produced from clay pots buried underground (known as ‘qvevri’) which still represent as much as ten percent of the country’s output.

An international perspective

Georgia has a fraught relationship with its domineering northern neighbour Russia – still its biggest customer for wine – but as the country’s political leaders have nurtured relations with the EU and NATO, its wine industry has also been looking west, building successful new markets.

Precise figures for exports to the UK are hard to quantify, as many UK imports now come via European intermediate countries, but we know that sales have been booming, rising ten fold between 2017 and 2021, from around 70,000 to 700,000 bottles.With further growth in mind, Georgia’s National Wine Agency has been working with the IWSC to bring its international judges back to the country for a second time, to assess wines in situ, marking the start of the 2024 competition.

Forming part of the Gurjaani Wine Festival, the judging took place in Kakheti, Georgia’s largest wine region, with over 500 entries, including a number from neighbouring Armenia and Azerbaijan. Master of Wine Alistair Cooper led the assessment process, supported by four teams consisting of renowned experts and buyers, including Cat Lomax, Will Hill, Emma Penman, Georgios Iordanidis, Melania Battiston, Zara Serobyan, Salvatore Castano and myself, with each panel also featuring local experts.

The judges’ verdict

Alistair Cooper MW says he has seen a “qualitative leap forward” in the quality of Georgian wines tasted

Announcing that he was “thoroughly impressed,” Cooper outlined the striking improvement in quality that he had observed during the judging process:“This was my second visit to Georgia, my first being four or five years ago, and I have seen a qualitative leap forward.On my previous visit, we had some hygiene issues with certain wines, but we have seen a lot less of that this time. There’s been a huge step forward in the top end wines and we have found some absolutely world class examples. The improvement over the last decade has been really quite remarkable.”

In all, 285 medals were awarded to Georgian wines, including an impressive 18 golds, more than 70 silvers and over 190 bronze medals.

“Some of the top white wines to which we awarded golds were so memorable; the aromas, the personality of the individual grapes. They have an individuality stamped onto them,” said Lomax, a consultant who has worked with retailers including Laithwaite’s, Majestic Wine and M&S, as she urged wineries to pay attention to the judges’ constructive feedback, a key element of the IWSC’s proposition: “I was really pleased to see so few hygiene faults (however) there were still some potentialissues with oxidation in some of the wines.If you get feedback from us, as a group of wine judges, that your wine is slightly oxidised that’s definitely something to look at and consider.”

Qvevri wines shine

The judging brought together top UK wine professionals who travelled to Georgia to take part and judge alongside local experts

Demonstrating that heritage styles continue to deliver wines of distinction for Georgia, examples made in qvevri received eight gold medals and many more silver and bronze awards, with the highest-scoring wine of the judging sessions being a qvevri wine – Kardanakhi 1888 LLC Tsarapi 2020 – which earned 97 points, the judges labelling it a ‘superstar’ wine.

“There have been some exceptional qvevri wines. The ability these wines have to age is really quite remarkable,” said Cooper.

Hill, buying director for Novel Wines, said it was heartening to see heritage winemaking flourish: “The texture that can come from using qvevri is something that you don’t really get from other vessels … it gives such a unique character with added dimensions as the wines age. The drying finish needs to be carefully controlled but that gives something really unique.”

Reflecting on the qvevri wines she had tasted, Lomax was also impressed: “My big takeaway is that it really allows aromatics and perfume to remain in the wine. You get the character of the grape really coming through in an expressive way.”

Sommelier Melania Battiston, previously of The Medlar, took part in the IWSC judging

Voyage of discovery

During a filmed discussion we enthused about the sheer diversity of the wines we’d tasted:“There were so many different styles on show and not just from one variety to another, but regionally too, (with) winemaking decisions that were very clear in the glass, so it has been really encouraging to see this kind of diversity … there is so much here to discover,” said Hill.

Saperavi performed strongly, with varietal wines winning five gold medals, the highest-scoring example coming from Mildiani Family Winery, which was also the most decorated producer across the judging, with a haul of 13 medals.

Drawing parallels with Malbec, Cooper talked of the potential for Georgia’s dominant red grape: “Saperavi is user friendly and accessible (so) it has a lot to offer.It’s a wild, juicy and inviting grape variety with the potential to age very well and it’s also easy (for consumers) to pronounce … One thing that really struck me was the judicious use of oak which was really quite restrained.”

The judging was an opportunity for the UK judges to also experience Georgia, its culture and winemaking traditions

With her extensive retail experience, Lomax agreed that Saperavi offered huge opportunity for Georgia: “In terms of the overall style, it’s a really rich, ripe and juicy variety with a load of character and that’s exactly what consumers are looking for. The more successful wines are where the tannins have been reined in and are not too dominant. Malbec as a grape variety is going like a train in the UK, with exponential growth year on year, so offering consumers something (from Saperavi)which is stylistically similar, but a little bit different, feels like a great next step.”

When it came to the whites, there was an even spread of gold medals for wines produced from Rkatsiteli, Georgia’s dominant white grape, and also Khikhvi, Mtsvane Kakhuri and Kisi, with Cooper suggesting the latter variety could have serious potential in the UK market: “Kisi is floral and aromatic, but not overtly so. With minerality on the palate (and) it is very much in line with what’s trendy at the moment, say Grüner or Albariño.”

So what does the future hold for Georgia’s burgeoning wine industry?Well, based on my own experience showcasing some of the top 2023 IWSC medal winners at the Georgian Wine Festival, at Devon’s Dartington Estate last October, there’s a real appetite for its wines among curious UK consumers, though pronouncing some of its grape names remains a challenge, even for me.

“The names can be a hurdle to overcome,” admits Hill. “I think we have to put the trust in some of our specialist retailers and restaurants, where there is time for a hand sell and there is someone to guide (consumers), because it opens the door to a whole new world of exciting wines for people to try.”